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Thursday, April 5, 2012

Hat Decline After Wars

Women - Military Influenced Hat 1918Once the Great War of 1914-18 began, fashion was influenced by the new wartime employment activities women had to engage in and the need for more practical utilitarian dress could not help but filter into what there was of mainstream fashion. Uniforms were everywhere as women did jobs once done by men and every job had a distinct uniform.


Right - 1918 Military Influenced Hat

Before the Great War being in service as servants was the usual employment for most women as housemaids, cooks or seamstresses. Choice had opened up in the last two decades and slowly some had become shop workers at the new emerging department stores and the more technically minded had become stenographers or telephonists. Women began to seriously participate in sports and needed clothes to move freely. Fashion adapted to their needs providing outfits for golf, climbing, skating, dancing, keep-fit, swimming and cycling. You can read about hat fashion of the 1900-1920 era here.

Then when the Second World War 1939-45 started, hats became less practical as people had to rush to air raid shelters and they would literally drop everything. Barriers of etiquette became broken down and although hats were not rationed in order to boost morale their wearing decreased.

Hats that were worn were generally practical and often homemade knitted warm hats, berets and hoods. Fast hats were formed as women tied headscarves into an instant hat such as a turban. Designers produced various new styles, but many only became universally popular after the war finished. You can read about hat fashion of the 1930s here.

Plumassiers

Running parallel to these hat making arts were feather workshops or more correctly workshops called plumassiers where feathers were dyed and made into arrangements from boas to aigrettes to tufts and sprays for both the worlds of fashion and interiors. Plumes have always been a status symbol and sign of economic stability.
Fortunes were paid by rich individuals for exotic feathered hats. Gorgeous feathered hats could command as much as £100 in the early Edwardian era. The Edwardians were masters in the art of excess and the flamboyant hats of the era are a clear example of this.

At one point whole stuffed birds were used to decorate hats, but as the new more enlightened century emerged, protests were voiced. In America the Audubon society expressed concern and in England the RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) campaigned for ecological understanding.

Eventually plumage pleas were heard and Queen Alexandra forbad the wearing of rare osprey feathers at court so that the osprey bird was not plundered for feathers. For a few years magazines quietly ignored making reference to feathers on hats as women continued to wear them. But soon the use of other rare bird feathers was banned and thereafter only farmed feathers could be used and only from specific birds

Origin of Milliners

Millinery has existed in Britain since 1700. In English courts the term milliner was used and this was derived from the term for travelling haberdashers from Milan in Italy. These travelling sales people sold all the items necessary to dress and were called millaners.

In France hats were made by hatmakers called chapeliers. Today the term modiste is used in France. Today technically a hatmaker makes hats for men whilst a milliner makes hats for women.

Why We Wear Hats

Humans have covered their heads since time immemorial. Initially headwear offered protection from the elements and from injury from falling rocks, weapons or masonry. Later head coverings became symbols of status of authority. Soon after hats progressed to become not only a uniform, but also an art form.

In fashion terms, hats are a very noticeable accessory because the onlooker’s attention is first drawn to the face. A hat is the most noticeable fashion item anyone can wear. The old saying goes 'if you want to get ahead and get noticed, then get a hat'. Indeed the word 'ahead' means just that one head further forward.

Since some body heat is lost through the head, in inclement conditions it is important to cover the head. Babies in particular lose heat rapidly through the head, thus ensuring a baby or toddler has a warm covered head in winter is important.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

How to Find a Job with a Fashion Design Degree


Fashion Designer

Did You Know.... The International Academy Of Design & Technology offers an online bachelors degree program in fashion merchandising as well as associates and bachelors degree programs in retail merchandise management. Learn more about IADT's online fashion programs.
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So, what do you once you get your fashion design degree? The path is simple: market yourself, market yourself, market yourself. You know that you are talented, and armed with your fashion design degree, it is time to make sure everyone else knows this too. While you are in school, decide what aspect of fashion design you wish to focus on, and then do what it takes to get there. It is no secret that fashion design is a skills-based industry - creativity is crucial, but your applicable skills are just as important if you want to get your foot in the door. Potential employers want to see what you know, and what you can do. Show them!
The first way to properly marketing yourself involves building out a thorough, professional-looking portfolio. Do not fret if you are a recent graduate, employers understand this and are happy to consider your best student work as an example of your abilities. Spend time carefully tailoring your selections because the portfolio you present is your chance to make a memorable first impression.
It is also important to have versatile skills. It is likely that you won't start out as the head designer or the creative directory - no matter how wonderfully talented you are. You want to be seen as an asset no matter what position a potential employer has available. So, make sure that you have the creative skills, the ability to troubleshoot, devloped critical thinking skills. Impress your employers no matter what role you fill and you are well on your way to a successful career.
Okay, so the most important advice we offer budding fashion designers is to be prepared for and willing to do anything. Don't be afraid to take a job answering phones for Calvin Klein or manning the copy machine for Prada. Just view any opportunity as a way to get started. Keep your eye on your long-term goal but be willing to settle for less in the beginning.
Just for a little extra boost of encouragement, consider the first jobs of same of the most famous designers in the industry. Ralph Lauren was a door-to-door tie salesman. Coco Chanel worked as a retail saleswoman in a hosiery store. Salvatore Ferragamo worked in a boot manufacturing plant, and Marc Jacobs was a stock boy for a New York clothing store. Laura Ashley was a secretary and Manolo Blahnik was a jean buyer for a department store. Humble beginnings? Certainly. The talent of the household brand names mentioned here didn't just suddenly pop out of out nowhere. Instead, these designers believed in their talent and were willing to do what it took to break into the industry. Remember this.
Whatever you do, pursue your career in fashion with passion and intense dedication. Start each day with a healthy dose of optimism and know that if you work hard enough for long enough, your dream job can happen. See you on the runway!

Want To Be A Fashion Stylist


Fashion Stylist

Did You Know.... The Art Institutes offer fashion design and fashion marketing programs in dozens of cities across the US. Learn more about the Art Institute campus near you.
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What a hair stylist does for your 'do, a fashion stylist does for your wardrobe!
It is the job of a fashion stylist to help a client figure out what "look" he or she desires and then help him or her get it. If a rocker chick is looking to tone it down for an interview, if an aspiring executive hopes to look the part, if a politician needs a new image, or if a mom desires to reclaim a lost sense of style and sophistication, he or she might consult a fashion stylist.
Ultimately, a fashion stylist is an image consultant. Professionals in this line of work have a keen fashion sense that is paired with an equally strong ability to recognize the desires and individuality of their clients. It is no big secret: we come in all shapes and sizes, and we have various personalities and lifestyles. We all want to look good, but we all want to look...well, like ourselves. A fashion stylist knows how to help clients choose outfits and accessories to compliment body type and sense of individuality.
Becoming a fashion guru takes dedication, experience, and pizzazz. Most fashion stylists start out in the fashion industry - working in various positions, including retail sales, buying, advertising, and journalism. Our tip to stylist hopefuls: soak up all of the knowledge and experience of the fashion industry that you can. Whether you start out selling pantyhose at Macy's or picking up the fashion editor's morning latte, keep your ears and eyes open! Knowing and learning as much as you can about the fashion industry will only prepare you to launch your own dream career.
Another tip: get experience by offering your services to family and friends. Everyone has the cousin whose wardrobe is stuck in the 1980's. Help your cousin out and practice your consulting skills! Don't be afraid to believe in your talent, and be adamant about marketing your services - even from the beginning. If you work hard, continue to engage in fashion design training, and want it bad enough you will eventually get a chance to show what you can do. Seize and dress every opportunity in a pair of Jimmy Choo's!

The Mystery of Fashion Trends


Trends

Did You Know.... The Art Institutes offer fashion design and fashion marketing programs in dozens of cities across the US. Learn more about the Art Institute campus near you.
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This summer it is "boho" chic. Last summer, it was preppy sailor simplicity. In the late 90's it was the grunge look. Yellow is the new black. Jeans are the new business casual. And on. And on. Yes, I am writing of fashion trends. The latest look, style, and color floods the covers of magazines, the shelves of retailers from Saks to H & M, the bodies of celebrities and television characters and, undoubtedly, is able to get enough of us to buy into it (literally and figuratively) to validate the whole cycle. So, while most of us are easily able to grasp this continuously perpetuating cycle of saturating the public with the latest, greatest duds, questions remain: how does a trend start? Who makes this decision? Why does it work?
Well, to be perfectly honest, there is no definitive answer to the myth that is a fashion trend. But, while the exact formula is beyond the consumer, we can be sure that it takes the work of several different interdependent fashion industry professions to convince us that espadrilles, suspenders, and terry-cloth suits are worthy of our dollars and donning.
Fashion designers gather their inspiration, whether it comes from popular culture, music, politics, a celebrity muse, or something else entirely. Then, they design - usually a spring and fall collection. With a slew of inspired, perfectly crafted designs ready to hit the runway, they show their collections.
It could possibly be said that the trend begins at the fashion show. Fashion writers, buyers, photographers and celebrities line the runways, waiting to take in, criticize and praise the designer's work.
Writers go back to their offices and verbally comment on the design they have seen. If a collection is deemed great, the editor may be persuaded to feature the clothing on the cover of the month's issue. This is also influenced by fashion publicists - professionals who are paid to get the designer's duds in front of larger audiences. Thus, we read about the latest fashion trend.
Photographers snap photos as the models parade down the runway and sell them to parties interested in the designer's work. The photos show up in newspapers, industry magazines, fashion magazines and various other media outlets. Thus, we see the latest fashion trend.
Buyers, if impressed, order pieces that their clientele will be willing to pay hundreds or thousands to own. Other designers, those focused on mass production of more affordable versions of the latest trend, gather their inspiration here too. Thus, we can purchase the latest fashion trend.
So, as you can see, it is impossible to pinpoint exactly how a fashion becomes a trend. What you can know, with certainty, is that it took many professionals in the fashion industry to get you to the cash register with your bohemian-inspired peasant blouse.

Lights, Action, Runway


Fashion Show

Did You Know.... The Art Institutes offer fashion design and fashion marketing programs in dozens of cities across the US. Learn more about the Art Institute campus near you.
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Producing a Fashion Show

Producing a fashion show is like directing a movie - coordinating all visual and technical aspects to create one final (but fabulous) production. Although fashion shows can be produced on any budget and for any type of audience, a game plan is necessary to execute perfection.
With over 20 fashion shows under my belt, I could probably write an entire book (and may still do). However, the following guidelines will certainly put you on the right track to illuminate your very own runway!
THEME of SHOW
Every fashion show must have an overall concept. Is it a Back to School Fashion Show for a mall, a showcase for a local designer, or a charity fundraiser? The client possibilities are endless. Creativity is the key to dress up the show any way you see fit. I have produced many themed events for holidays, stylist collaborations, color/shoes/jewelry/lingerie inspired concepts, and designer or retail-driven shows. Once you have a theme for your runway, the details are much easier to solidify.
MODELS
Agency models know how to strut the catwalk, but can be very expensive. If you don't have the budget to pay industry rates, base your model search on your client's needs. Are you promoting a children's line and need models under the age of 12? Is this a charity fundraiser with all ticket-holders over the age of 60? Hold a model call and place ads on free bulletins requesting potential models to show up in person to fill out fitting sheets and take Polaroids to remember their look. This is a great way to build your own model base for future shows.
FASHIONS for the RUNWAY
As the producer, you may or may not have to select the clothes for the runway. Based on your show concept, the stylists, designers, or stores might choose the merchandise. In any case, make sure you are familiar with all the garments in the show. Each garment should be returned in the same condition it originated. Take photos at the model fitting and have a list of all items on each model. When they return their outfit to you after the show, check for all pieces. This way you know who is accountable for what.
PRODUCTION
To get any show ready for the runway, you will need to solidify a venue to host the event, a runway or stage, lighting, music and of course, hair & makeup. Nightclubs, hotels, schools, and malls are popular fashion show venues. However creative spaces can be turned into runways. You may have a DJ to mix the music, a salon sponsoring the hair/makeup, and a multimedia screen on the runway with store logos. Whatever your technical details, make sure everything is tested and ready to go before the show.
SCRIPT
Write out the entire show in a script format. Whether you have an emcee speaking commentary on each outfit or music timed out for each individual scene, the model and fashion order is extremely important to have written down. This will make it much easier to call your show and follow along with the program.
VIP SPONSORS
On occasion, you may work with sponsors paying for the event who want additional publicity onsite. Hang their banners, giveaway promotional gift bags, and/or host a VIP reception for the sponsor's guests. If the sponsor is a restaurant or alcohol/beverage company, feature their product exclusively.
With thorough planning and creativity, a fashion show can be a huge success. And so much better than a boring movie!
To find a fashion design school location near you and learn more about the fashion programs available, click on any of the school links below:

Online

The Art Institute of Pittsburgh, Online Division
Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Retail Management, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Management
International Academy of Design & Technology Online
Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Merchandising

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Why Work When You Can Design?


Designer

Did You Know.... The International Academy Of Design & Technology offers an online bachelors degree program in fashion merchandising as well as associates and bachelors degree programs in retail merchandise management. Learn more about IADT's online fashion programs.
 
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Are your school notebooks literally filled with creative illustrations of fashion design concepts that no-one has ever seen? If so, you may have already found that getting in the door of a reputable fashion design firm, is almost impossible without the right experience or credentials to make your resume stand out. Whether you're interested in a career working in fashion design, fashion editing, fashion merchandising; you can't get taken seriously if you can't get noticed.
We Can Help! All we do is help creative people like you get their questions answered.
  • What's my earning potential as an assistant fashion editor?
  • Is Fashion Merchandising more competitive then Fashion Designing?
  • Is the demand for Fashion Marketing growing?
  • Can I complete my degree in Fashion by taking all my classes online?
Why not finally get the credentials you need to be taken more seriously! Learn what it takes to make your professional aspirations a reality by requesting free information from any of the leading fashion design schools below.
  • Engage in dynamic class discussions
  • Gain innovative insights from leading professionals in the field
  • Take classes at your own pace, even entirely Online
  • Develop the skills to express your creative talents
Turn the tables and let the leading fashion design firms compete for you! Get the skills to communicate your creative potential through illustrations, clothing, animation and more. If you have an eye for trends and a passion for clothing why not finish it off with the proper training so someday you might see your work in a magazine or on television! The possibilities are endless!

LIGHTS, ACTION, RUNWAY



Did You Know.... The Art Institutes offer fashion design and fashion marketing programs in dozens of cities across the US. Learn more about the Art Institute campus near you.
 
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MODEL EXPECTATIONS

I am often asked by so many aspiring models, how to break into the industry. As in any fashion trade, modeling is an extremely competitive and cutthroat business. You've seen "Americas Next Top Model" and "Janice Dickinson's Modeling Agency" which glamorize the world of fashion shoots, runway shows and designer clothing. However to get to that working model stature, it can be quite a challenge.

However, models are needed on any level, from local boutique fashion shows to regional advertising campaigns to national cover girls. The steps to get to the top can be extremely difficult but not impossible. It is important to expect to work hard, listen to industry experts and build your book.

FIND A REPUTABLE AGENT

Don't be scammed into paying thousands of dollars by an agency that promises to make you famous. If living in a small town or city, research the agencies that actually work with professional clients, such as advertising and film production companies, and show producers. Don't sign with a company that claims to bring in outside scouts from LA and NYC. A real agent will help build your book so that you are ready to actually work in those markets.

START EARLY

It's no secret that models keep getting younger and younger. Some of the freshest faces on magazine covers are as young as 13. Getting an early start is an advantage that is worthy to explore if possible. However, models of every age continue to work in the industry every day.

BUILD YOUR BOOK

When going to a "Go-See" for a potential job, the client will ask to see your book or portfolio of pictures. Make sure your book is current with all of your previous experience and has a range of different looks you can achieve. To build your book, many new models work with professional photographers on test-shoots and even offer to model for student photographers. These jobs may not pay but can give you some amazing pictures for free.

TAKE A CLASS

Ask your reputable agent where you can take a class to work on posing for the camera or walking the runway. Many agents offer classes onsite to help their clientele improve their modeling skills, while some professionals also teach classes at fashion schools or on a private level.

SALARY EXPECTATIONS

Remember an agency will take 15-20% of what you earn on a paying job. This is unavoidable if you want to book the good gigs. Based on your current market, models are often paid a flat fee for the job. For example, an advertising client may pay $250/model per day for a 2-day shoot. Your agent will take their commission before taxes and then you will receive your check.

BE A REALISTIC SUPERMODEL

Giselle and Heidi Klum didn't expect to become internationally sensations and neither should you. Clients can spot the divas a mile away and are really looking for the fresh face that will work best for them. Have a positive and confident attitude and think big and you just may be the girl on the next cover of VOGUE.

How To Figure Out If Fashion School Is Right For You


Fashion School Bag

Did You Know.... The International Academy Of Design & Technology offers an online bachelors degree program in fashion merchandising as well as associates and bachelors degree programs in retail merchandise management. Learn more about IADT's online fashion programs.
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It is true that not every famous designer has gone to a fashion design college, but enrolling in fashion school programs is a sure way to perfect your design skills. While it is entirely possible (with hard work and unwavering determination) to become a successful, world renown fashion designer without school- like Alexander Queen, or Coco Chanel- it is more likely that you will reach the same end by attending fashion design schools.
There are plenty of those that made it big with the help of a formal education: Christian Lacroix, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, and Michael Kors to name a few. They all attended school and earned a degree which gave them the needed boost to make their way in the industry. But, in case this is not enough to convince you that you should seek out the benefits of fashion design colleges, here is a list of reasons to go.
  • Fashion school programs will prepare you to reach your big picture career goals; attending fashion design school will give you the building blocks for the steps to achieving your dreams. Natural talent is one thing, but when combined with formal training, it makes a winning package.
  • Fashion school will help bolster your credentials and build your portfolio. The fashion industry is extremely competitive and you will have time to develop the necessary edge to succeed.
  • Fashion school programs will allow you to explore a full range of possible careers. If you have an eye for business as well as design, perhaps a career in fashion merchandising would suit you; become a textile buyer, a product promoter, or a wholesale merchandiser, among other great options.
  • Fashion design school is an excellent environment to network within the industry. You will be surrounded by aspiring artists as well as established designers who you can not only learn from, but also make connections with. Networking is a huge part of success in the fashion industry

After Fashion School: Top Qualities of a Fashion Designer


Fashion Designer

Did You Know.... The International Academy Of Design & Technology offers an online bachelors degree program in fashion merchandising as well as associates and bachelors degree programs in retail merchandise management. Learn more about IADT's online fashion programs.
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When it comes to fashion it is all about the design. If you want to be the next Coco Chanel or Karl Lagerfeld then fashion school will equip you with the skills you need to be on the top of the fashion food chain. Learn what are some of the qualities that make great fashion designers.
Becoming a fashion designer in this competitive industry will require a lot of you. Many covet fashion designing jobs while only few attain the success they seek. If you are considering becoming a fashion designer, find out if you have what it takes to succeed in both the job world and in fashion school. Here are the top qualities of a successful fashion designer.
  • Fashion knowledge - Even before you step foot into a fashion school, you should have a current knowledge of today’s hottest fashions. Whether you love them or hate them, it is important to know trends and top players in the industry to see where your point of view would fit in.
  • Creativity - Fashion is an art like any other. It is great if you have a love of fashion, but without creativity, you will have little to offer the world of fashion. Creativity is not something you can learn in fashion school yet studying fashion inside and outside of school could inspire you and get those artistic juices flowing.
  • Originality - Knowing everything about the hottest trends is important but what would you bring to the table? The world of fashion craves new and exciting designs. Some of the most successful fashion designers are those who dare to be different and were often the oddballs in fashion school.
  • Technical skills - Fashion design jobs require great artistic vision but nothing will come to fruition without technical skills. You must not only know how to design clothing but also to construct it. While top fashion designers have manufacturers under their belts, new fashion designers who are just starting out will have to sew for themselves. These are skills you can learn in fashion school or with a fashion apprenticeship.

Monday, February 13, 2012

Simple, Classic, Sexy: The Wedding Gowns of Vera Wang


Vera Wang Wedding Dress

Did You Know.... The Art Institutes offer fashion design and fashion marketing programs in dozens of cities across the US.
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Vera Wang has done more for bridesmaids than any other fashion designer in history. Her modern, sophisticated bridal collections removed much of the stigma associated with being a bridesmaid -- no one has to worry about wearing a puce-colored pouf skirt when Vera Wang is in your corner. Wang's sophisticated and streamlined bridal collections are what made her a household name, but there is much more to this talented designer.

Vera Wang got her start as the Senior Fashion Editor at Vogue. In her sixteen years there, she rubbed elbows with some of the most famous fashion designers in history and learned to anticipate trends and understand design principles. Ironically, it was a failure in her early life that led to her most famous early creation -- throughout her childhood, Vera Wang was a talented and dedicated ice-skating champion, with dreams of going to the Olympics. When that dream failed to materialize, Wang turned to her second love: fashion. (Wang's mother had been an extremely fashion-savvy woman, and Vera grew up with a love of clothing.) The design that turned her into a celebrity overnight? The diaphanous skating uniform worn by Nancy Kerrigan at the 1994 Olympics. The outfit garnered tons of media attention, and the rest was history!

Vera Wang's bridal designs were also influenced by an event in her life -- her own wedding. In the 1980s, mainstream wedding gowns were matronly and sexless. Like many other designs of the time, bridal fashions were over-designed and gaudy. For her own wedding, Vera Wang searched high and low to find a simple, classic wedding gown, and couldn't. She ended up being married in a puffy-sleeved monstrosity that she disliked. This only served to inspire her creativity, however, and she set out to design wedding fashions that were sexy, sophisticated, and that reflected a woman's personal style. The Vera Wang label quickly established a precedent and earned praise from consumers and the media alike for its use of modern lines and sumptuous fabrics. According to one reviewer, "There was no fashion in bridal [design] until Vera Wang."

Today, Vera Wang is much more than just a bridal couture designer. She has used her personal design aesthetic to create ready-to-wear collections, fragrance collections, and products for the home. She continues to innovate in her use of materials, proportion, and detailing.

To find a fashion design school location near you and learn more about the fashion programs available, click on any of the school links below:

Online

The Art Institute of Pittsburgh, Online Division
Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Retail Management, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Management
Berkeley College, Online
Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Marketing, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Management, Associates Degree in Fashion Marketing, Associates Degree in Fashion Management
International Academy of Design & Technology Online
Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Merchandising

The Connection Between Celebrities and Fashion


Angelina Jolie

Did You Know.... The International Academy Of Design & Technology offers an online bachelors degree program in fashion merchandising as well as associates and bachelors degree programs in retail merchandise management. Learn more about IADT's online fashion programs.
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By J. Moore
You are sitting at home in your comfortably flannel pajama pants and a pizza stained t-shirt. With a bag of potato chips in one hand and the remote in the other, you excitedly switch on the tube to watch the event of the year... well, at least of the week... the Academy Awards.

Which films have been nominated? You are not sure.

Who is the Oscar favorite for "Best Cinematography?" You do not care.

What will Halle be wearing?

How many diamonds will fit around Nicole's thin little wrist?

YES! THOSE ARE THE QUESTIONS!

And thus we see the reason for the relationship between fashion designers and our favorite A-list celebrities. Calvin, Donatella, Marc, and the rest of the gang are certainly not fools! Fashion designers are aesthetically driven - they seek to create physical beauty inspired by their thoughts, ideas, and visions. This physical beauty is known to us as clothing. And how beautiful it truly is!

And what can be better than a meticulously constructed and designed floor length Vera Wang gown? A meticulously constructed and designed floor length Vera Wang gown on Julia Roberts! Fuse the most beautiful fashion designs with someof the most beautiful faces, bodies and people and the result borders on sublime - a sensory delight that keeps us tuned in and left wanting to emulate.

Flashback to the months leading up to my senior prom... just weeks after Gwenyth Paltrow won her Academy Award for "Best Actress", the racks of Macy's were overflowing with replicas of Paltrow's bubblegum pink ball gown. As much as we value our individual tastes and fashion sense, there is at least a part of us (no matter how small), that emulates the beauty we find in the world. This is natural, right?
I have heard that a celebrity wearing your gown/tux/creation to a red carpet event is worth over a million dollars in advertising. Further, they tell me that slipping a gorgeous frock onto an Academy Award winner is worth tens of millions of dollars in advertising. This does not seem to be much of a stretch. Beauty sells - making the relationship between fashion and celebrity brilliant.

Reasons To Go To Fashion Design School


Fashion Show

Did You Know.... The Art Institutes offer fashion design and fashion marketing programs in dozens of cities across the US. Learn more about the Art Institute campus near you.
 
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You are creative. You can sew. You have a sketchbook of designs the Hilton sisters will drool over. So, why go to fashion school? There are many reasons:
1. You will be taught.

The study of fashion design involves hands-on training, so, yes, you can prepare yourself by developing many skills on your own. However, when you choose to pursue a fashion design degree, you are choosing to be taught.
What does this mean? You will interact with instructors and professors who will teach you new and advanced skills. You will be critiqued and your technique will be perfected through exchanges with other students.
As a fashion design student, you will have the time and opportunity to hone and perfect your craft without the pressures of clients and your career.

2. You will be inspired.

Who will you encounter in fashion school? Other talented, excited, inspired young artists. Design school affords fashion students the opportunity to experiment and feed off of the energy and innovation of other students. In our opinion, this experience can only make your own design work better.

3. You will be prepared.

The challenges and obstacles of earning your fashion design degree will thoroughly prepare you for the fast-paced, "so five minutes ago" fashion industry. Also, your courses and class projects will give you an opportunity to build out a diverse portfolio of your student work, which make your skills more marketable.

4. You will get a job.

Yes, it is true, and quite possibly the most important reason you should go to fashion school. What distinguishes you from the leagues of other creative, skilled seamstresses? Your degree! Employers want designers who can commit to work hard and achieve success - two abilities obtaining a degree proves you have.

Lights, Action, Runway


Fashion Show

Did You Know.... The International Academy Of Design & Technology offers an online bachelors degree program in fashion merchandising as well as associates and bachelors degree programs in retail merchandise management. Learn more about IADT's online fashion programs.
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Producing a Fashion Show

Producing a fashion show is like directing a movie - coordinating all visual and technical aspects to create one final (but fabulous) production. Although fashion shows can be produced on any budget and for any type of audience, a game plan is necessary to execute perfection.
With over 20 fashion shows under my belt, I could probably write an entire book (and may still do). However, the following guidelines will certainly put you on the right track to illuminate your very own runway!

THEME of SHOW

Every fashion show must have an overall concept. Is it a Back to School Fashion Show for a mall, a showcase for a local designer, or a charity fundraiser? The client possibilities are endless. Creativity is the key to dress up the show any way you see fit. I have produced many themed events for holidays, stylist collaborations, color/shoes/jewelry/lingerie inspired concepts, and designer or retail-driven shows. Once you have a theme for your runway, the details are much easier to solidify.

MODELS

Agency models know how to strut the catwalk, but can be very expensive. If you don't have the budget to pay industry rates, base your model search on your client's needs. Are you promoting a children's line and need models under the age of 12? Is this a charity fundraiser with all ticket-holders over the age of 60? Hold a model call and place ads on free bulletins requesting potential models to show up in person to fill out fitting sheets and take Polaroids to remember their look. This is a great way to build your own model base for future shows.

FASHIONS for the RUNWAY

As the producer, you may or may not have to select the clothes for the runway. Based on your show concept, the stylists, designers, or stores might choose the merchandise. In any case, make sure you are familiar with all the garments in the show. Each garment should be returned in the same condition it originated. Take photos at the model fitting and have a list of all items on each model. When they return their outfit to you after the show, check for all pieces. This way you know who is accountable for what.

PRODUCTION

To get any show ready for the runway, you will need to solidify a venue to host the event, a runway or stage, lighting, music and of course, hair & makeup. Nightclubs, hotels, schools, and malls are popular fashion show venues. However creative spaces can be turned into runways. You may have a DJ to mix the music, a salon sponsoring the hair/makeup, and a multimedia screen on the runway with store logos. Whatever your technical details, make sure everything is tested and ready to go before the show.

SCRIPT

Write out the entire show in a script format. Whether you have an emcee speaking commentary on each outfit or music timed out for each individual scene, the model and fashion order is extremely important to have written down. This will make it much easier to call your show and follow along with the program.

VIP SPONSORS
On occasion, you may
work with sponsors paying for the event who want additional publicity onsite. Hang their banners, giveaway promotional gift bags, and/or host a VIP reception for the sponsor's guests. If the sponsor is a restaurant or alcohol/beverage company, feature their product exclusively.

Careers After Fashion School


Fashion

Did You Know.... The Art Institutes offer fashion design and fashion marketing programs in dozens of cities across the US. Learn more about the Art Institute campus near you.
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If you are considering going to fashion school to become a fashion designer, you should know that there are many other career paths open to you upon graduation. Fashion designing jobs can be extremely fun and artistically gratifying. However, they are often intense and very competitive. Do yourself a favor and explore all of the career options that come with completing fashion school. Here are just a few to get you started.
  • Fashion journalist - For those who have a passion for fashion and for writing as well, fashion journalism could be an even better match for you than fashion designing jobs. Fashion journalists cover industry news and trends, from runway shows to new boutiques. A job like this requires serious writing skills, a natural curiosity and a profound respect for deadlines and producing quality articles. Learning about the industry in fashion school will definitely boost your career as a fashion journalist.
  • Fashion stylist - People who strive to become fashion stylists have a profound knowledge of fashion, a fierce personal style and a knack for putting together complete outfits for other people. While stylists do not have to attend fashion school to become successful, it is important that they know about fabrics, prints and other technical aspects of fashion as this knowledge will affect their fashion choices.
  • Fashion marketer - Marketing is all about creating an image of a product or company and broadcasting that image to the consumer. The world of fashion would come to a grinding halt without fashion marketers. Much like fashion journalists, people in fashion marketing must have excellent communication skills. They must also know how to gain and maintain a vast set of contacts.
These are just a few fashion careers you can look into during your time in fashion school. With a little research, you can find the career path that was made for you.
To find a fashion design school location near you and learn more about the fashion programs available, click on any of the school links below:

Online

The Art Institute of Pittsburgh, Online Division
Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Retail Management, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Management
Berkeley College, Online
Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Marketing, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Management, Associates Degree in Fashion Marketing, Associates Degree in Fashion Management
International Academy of Design & Technology Online
Bachelor's Degree in Fashion, Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Merchandising

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Corset Restrictions

One of the greatest restrictions placed on women has been corsetry. Severe lacing restricts movement and can damage internal organs and impair health. Female emancipators of the early 20th century used pictures which showed the position of the female internal organs with and without corsetry. Pictures of deformed rib cages were also used illustrate how breathing was impaired. They used the evidence to support their arguments for condemning the corset. There is considerable thought that such images of wasp waist were enhanced by artistic licence.

Picture of two female bodies with cut out views of internal organs and the possible deformation caused by lacing.Small waists did exist, but were usually on young girls and needed 'training'. Today when women take to corsets it can take about 2 years to achieve a gradually smaller waist using lacing methods. Goths are very fond of corsets in their fashion style.

Right - The unnatural hourglass figure.


Typical images used in medical books and which suggested a woman's internal organs before and after restraining in tight corsetry in the Victorian era. Please note that even the Victorians were capable of manipulating pictures to their own end if it served a purpose.
Recent medical examinations of females corseted today in actual Victorian corsets show how the women had no energy and lacked breath when given lung tests. Once the corset was undone the women felt energised again.

The test is not a fair test as women did not simply lace immediately to a 16 inch waist, they trained the waist over a period of years. Over 2 years a 22 inch waist can be gradually reduced to a handspan by gradual increments of the lacing. It would take about a year of not wearing a corset for the internal organs to settle back to the natural position. But back they would go.

20th Century Modern Shoes

Picture of a white and green platform shoe with a 4 inch platform.Although foot binding seems cruel in the 21st century, modern shoes frequently deform the foot. Shoe lasts often show an evenly pointed shape around which modern shoes are built. The foot that fits the shoe made from a pointed last should have its big toe in the middle, flanked by two smaller toes on either side. Platform shoes which elongate the leg, but place the wearer in danger of ankle twisting, have come in and out of fashion several times in the last fifty years.


In the 1990s a famous incident occurred with platform soles, when Naomi Campbell slipped during Vivienne Westwood's fashion show whilst Miss Campbell was wearing very high platform shoes.
Left - A platform shoe by Vivienne Westwood.

Head Flattening, Elongation and Lip Stretching

Moulding of the skull and the practice of head flattening was common among Mayan society and has been used in Eastern countries. Protuberances such as the nose, ears and forehead were flattened to conform to the cultural beauty ideal. The head was flattened by putting the new born infant's head between two wooden boards creating a mouse trap like cradle, held in place with bindings. The soft skull slowly moulded to the cultural beauty ideal of flatness and after a few years the boards were removed permanently.

Elongated heads have been as popular as flattened heads. A Congo woman with an elongated head would be thought very beautiful by her people.

Similarly a Chad woman would have had her lips supported and stretched by metal rings since early childhood. In adulthood her stretched lips would express the ultimate in beauty. Western society has not gone quite this far, but it is now fashionable for some women to have collagen injections and implants to enlarge the lips.

Extremes include plastic surgery where the lips are turned inside out and although some find this an attractive feature on a woman, many do not and are repulsed by it.

Body and Breast Enhancement

Body image can be adapted to accommodate changing fashions. In the 1920s some women endured breast reductions so they could wear the flat boyish fashions. By the 1930s the breast in all its glory was soon back in fashion. The fuller the bosom the better. Expensive surgical enlargement was often done for people such as actresses, but not talked about much. More recently the silhouette from various angles has been manipulated even more by cosmetic surgery.

Nowadays people with ordinary incomes view breast enlargement as their right to satisfy emotional and fashionable needs. People of every age group have become obsessed by their body image. Older teenage girls particularly favour breast implants. Liposuction, tummy tucks, nose jobs, lip manipulation and implants for fuller breasts have all become popular in search of the ideal silhouette.

Cosmetic Surgery

In the Western world the outlines of women's bodies have been controlled by corsetry and petticoat constructions. But now many consumers have their figure faults corrected by cosmetic surgery with implants or liposuction fat reduction. Plastic surgery was originally developed thousands of years ago in India for treating injuries and birth defects. Then just over a century ago in 1885 when local anaesthetics were invented, surgeons began performing various cosmetic operations.

In 1901 the first face lift was done by Eugene Hollander of Berlin. The wealthy liked face lifts. A face lift meant they could actually buy some youth, even though the body cells were ageing.

Body Image

This page looks at how different societies view the body silhouette, the body image as ugly or beautiful. It examines some of the ways individuals have manipulated their body image, to gain the cultural ideal of an era.
Fashion history shows the most desirable body image of a fashion era is most often achieved by distorting the figure by enlargement or reduction, or by flattening or moving parts into new positions.

Fine Drawing Pens

Today a huge range of wonderful fine pens exist at about a fifth of the price of lesser models of twenty years ago. They can be used over a coloured sketch to sharpen it up instead of using a B pencil. They are very useful if you're trying to show intricate detail such as embroidery on a design.

Mounting Board for Presentation Work


Work may need to be presented for all sorts of reasons. It might be that you have a college interview or a job to apply for or you may just want to make your work look better for display purposes. So you'll have to learn to mount your work.

You can buy mounting board from good art shops for presentation work. Related or toning colours can be best. For final background boards try fairly neutral, but expensive dusty looking colours such as cream, taupe, olive, sand, grey blue, wine and black. A set of story boards all in one colour can look very attractive and thought out from a presentation point of view. Avoid crude background colours for boards. Aim to make your work have an look expensive look.

You can of course instead use CAD software such as Colour Matters.

A Sharp Knife


You will need a sharp Stanley type knife or surgical craft knife and replacement blades to trim card and paper. Don't try to use anything but a knife of this type to trim a hole out of the centre of a piece of mounting board. Never use a scissors as it will produce a very amateur result.

Metal Ruler


A metal safety ruler will give you better cutting edges than a wooden ruler that eventually develops little irregularities.

Suitable Adhesives for Fabric

For sticking fabric and braids I have found general PVA glue, Copydex and Evostick wood glue all very good. Don't apply too much of any of the glues and do allow time for the glue to get tacky and thicker before applying the fabric, so that the fabric does not absorb glue through to the top surface.

Cartridge Paper

In addition to layout paper, cartridge paper is ideal for fashion drawing and is thick enough for light painting with gouache or watercolours. If you use a heavy bold black felt pen template beneath the cartridge paper you can see just enough of the template outline to get the line of the silhouette and the correct body proportions.

Putty Rubber

A putty rubber can be bought from an art supplies shop. It's very useful because unlike an ordinary eraser it does not rub away the background paper.

Pencils

Pencils for fashion drawing should be soft B pencils. You will need a B or 2B for general sketching and a 4B for highlight and emphasis. Keep the 2B quite sharp and use the 4B to make the emphasis mark you like best.

When you make the light trace of the template beneath your layout paper, be sure to ensure the trace is just that - light.

Coloured Pencils

I like Caran d'Ache coloured water soluble pencils. These high quality Swiss made water soluble colour pencils come in 2 types - the Caran d'Ache Prismalo 3mm lead range and the Caran d'Ache Supracolor 3.7mm artist's range. These colours are great when you blend them in strokes or follow curvature and then use a damp paintbrush to create water colour paint effects and highlights with minimum effort.

Go easy and don't over wet or over draw. Be patient as you can slowly build more colour layers once its dry.

Felt Pens

Felt pens by Pantone can be used to great effect. The flesh tones can be used for skin areas like arms and legs and faces. They give good non blotching colour on layout paper. Some people like to colour the sketches they make using felt pens always. That's fine if that's your style, but do use quality felts as some cheaper versions run and blotch over outlines

Posture, Poses and Template Silhouettes

You should take care to note that anyone in period costume would stand more gracefully, sedately and modestly than a woman after 1960 might pose. So make any costume history drawings you do on very elegantly posed templates. Think about how the person you are trying to represent would look posture wise. If you can get the hair right you will also capture the spirit of an era.

The second factor for success is to keep to a theme when sketching a sheet of ideas. For example concentrate on interesting waist variations or necklines. The theme will give flow to your designs.

Fashion Silhouette Templates

The easiest way to draw fashion when you have limited skill is to use a template. Here are templates of a model pose in 3 sizes suitable for historical costume work or simple fashion designs. In the next 2 pages there are 2 modern stance fashion pose silhouette templates in strident pose and 2 elegant poses for free download.

If these are not suitable why not purchase my new ebook on Fashion Drawing Figure Templates ebook in a range of over 40 different poses with 5 sizes to each pose. There are many different poses in my ebook, including elegant, confident, sexy and strident poses as well as back and side view poses and a runner.

Layout Paper

Layout paper is a fine semi opaque paper that allows you to faintly see an image beneath it. This enables you to use a fashion or body template under the top sheet. It has a good quality for a semi opaque paper and is suitable for remounting onto firmer background papers and cards for presentation purposes.

The Basics of Fashion Sketching

This section is for those nervous of fashion drawing. The hints and tips appear as more detailed information in my ebook, the first Fashion Drawing Figure Templates ebook on the web.

You may have to do some fashion drawing as part of a course or you may simply want to sketch out an idea you have for a special evening dress, ball dress, wedding dress or bridesmaid's dresses. With a little technique most people who insist they cannot draw can achieve a satisfactory fashion drawing. To aid results use some of the following items - you will find the list helpful if you do not have a clue where to start

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

High Fashion - High Cost of Haute Couture

Dependant on the Haute Couture design house and the garment, the cost of a couture item runs from about £10,000 for a simple blouse to £40,000 and often beyond that figure. A Chanel couture suit for example in 2002 might have cost £20,000. By mid 2004 an evening frock cost £50,000. If you are not rich it's hard for an individual to understand why the price is so high, but it's for service, workmanship, originality of a unique design and superb materials of the finest quality.

In addition the client would get a perfection of fit only achieved by painstaking methods of cutting and fitting to the client's body. The manual labour needed to produce a garment this way takes between 100-150 hours for a suit and up to 1000 hours for an embellished evening dress. The evening dress might have thousands of hand sewn beads probably done by the expert and famous Parisian embroidery and beading firm of Lesage, founded in 1922 by Albert Lesage.

A couture house like Chanel for example will have about 150 regular clients who buy couture and a house like Dior will make about 20 couture bridal gowns a year.

What is Haute Couture?

Costume and Fashion history would not be the same without Haute couture.

Haute Couture is a French phrase for high fashion. Couture means dressmaking, sewing, or needlework and haute means elegant or high, so the two combined imply excellent artistry with the fashioning of garments. The purchase of a haute couture model garment is at the top level of hand customised fashion design and clothing construction made by a couture design house. A model haute couture garment is made specifically for the wearer's measurements and body stance. The made to measure exclusive clothes are virtually made by hand, carefully interlined, stay taped and fitted to perfection for each client.

An Interview with the Keeper of the Robes

In the interests of posterity it might have been wiser to have used satin from another source, since the fabric used is quite rotted. At an interview in the London Museum in 1978, Miss Kay Staniland, Keeper of the Robes, told me that the Queen's wedding dress, which has been displayed several times, was in an appalling condition; the main problem being the silk used for the dress. Miss Staniland described the silk as being very heavily tin weighted. She explained that the tin weighting was contributing to the continual deterioration of the fabric, speeding up the rotting process which starts as soon as any fabric is removed from the loom.

In the early 1970s, the dress was displayed with half a dozen other Royal wedding dresses. When Miss Staniland attempted to fit the Queen's dress to its polystyrene dress form she found that the weight of the embroidery dragged the skirt down, increasing the strain on the weave. To have left the dress on the form as it was, would have resulted in the skirt tearing from the bodice. The problem was solved by the construction of a calico skirt with tapes. This was used to support the heavy embroidered skirt and was secured to the form, without adding strain to the bodice.

Despite the fact that I was a serious costume student I was not allowed to even see, let alone handle the gown using special conservation gloves. However Miss Staniland kindly went to some trouble to show me photographs of the back view of the dress. The back fastening of the dress was not a zip, but a series of fourteen tiny covered buttons which were spaced closely together and stopped at the base of the spine. All the buttonholes had unravelled and beneath these there was a zip for additional support.

The left sleeve was badly frayed; the head having come completely away from the armhole, revealing a tear in the armpit. Some of the underarm degradation of the fabric was due probably to the combination of the metal salts in the silk and underarm perspiration which together speeded up the disintegration process. Anyone standing under intense camera lights knowing they would be watched by millions combined with the occasion of a marriage ceremony would perspire a great deal.


The keeper confided that gowns of this type were a nightmare to display and handle and from the Museum's point of view, the condition of this comparatively new dress was classified as poor. Already it was a conservation problem limiting the length of time it could be displayed even in the most carefully controlled conditions. Considering I was given that information a quarter of a century ago one can only speculate at the condition of the gown today. You are reading an original 'Queen's Wedding Dress' royalty fashion history article by Pauline Weston Thomas at

The Royal wedding group

The design was repeated throughout the length of the fifteen foot train and repeat motifs of embroidery bordered the sweetheart neckline, the long satin sleeves and the hem. Picture of Princess Margaret wearing a co-ordinating bridesmaid's dress.

Right - The beautiful embroidered train of the wedding dress.

Similar motifs were also featured on the complementary bridesmaids' dresses.

H. R. H Princess Margaret wearing a dress with motifs in the same style as those on her sister's dress.

Wisely, the Princess rejected the usual heavy heirloom lace so often worn by Royal brides, and instead chose a flattering soft white tulle veil that was half the length of the train. With it she wore a small Russian style sunray fringe tiara and a single row of pearls. You are reading an original 'Queen's Wedding Dress' royalty fashion history article by Pauline Weston Thomas at

The Hartnell Wedding Dress and Pictures

The following day the Princess walked down the aisle of Westminster Abbey on the arm of His Majesty King George VI. Right - Now we are married...

The richly embroidered white satin wedding dress shimmered with her every movement. Softly spaced throughout the dress were garlands of pearl orange blossom, syringa, jasmine and White Rose of York. These were skilfully combined with flowing lines of wheat ears, the symbol of fertility, and worked in pearl and diamante. Unique Wedding Favors and Decorations

Picture of wedding group with Princess Elizabeth II and Prince Philip in 1947.

Politically Correct Silkworms

The Queen Mother had specifically asked that Hartnell should use an unusually rich, lustrous stiff satin which was made at Lullington Castle. The satin was ideal for the train, but Hartnell thought that the dress required a more supple material of a similar tone. He ordered the similar fabric from the Scottish firm of Winterthur near Dunfermline. Difficulties arose when rivals put about the rumour that the Scottish satin was made from 'enemy silk worms', either from Italy or possibly Japan. A telephone call to Dunfermline settled the scandal. Mr. Hartnell was assured the silkworms were from Nationalist China and were not 'enemy silkworms'.

However politically correct the silkworms were, time has shown that the choice of silk was not a good one and below you can read some facts about the dress in my interview with Miss Kay Staniland, Keeper of the Robes in the London Museum in 1978.

But thirty years before in 1947 there was no immediate thought in Hartnell's mind that this would be a Museum piece of the future. His concern was to complete the gown as quickly and in as much secrecy as possible. Despite the many attempts of the press to bribe Hartnell's staff, the only glimpse newspapermen had of the dress, was when the covered four foot box containing the dress, left Hartnell's salon the day before the wedding.

Hartnell's Research

Less than three months before the wedding date, one of Hartnell's designs was approved and he began his research immediately. He describes this in his autobiography (1955): 'I roamed the London Art Galleries in search of classic inspiration and fortunately found a Botticelli figure in clinging ivory silk, trailed with jasmine, smilax, syringa and small white rose-like blossoms. I thought these flora might be interpreted on a modern dress through the medium of white crystals and pearls.'

Because of Wartime restrictions, the pearls were not available in this country, and eventually Hartnell obtained twenty thousand of the correct pearls from America. Once the pearls were in his possession Hartnell set about transferring the embroidery design to the paper pattern, but before the embroideresses could carry out the work Hartnell found himself in the throes of a publicity scandal. You are reading an original 'Queen's Wedding Dress' royalty fashion history article by Pauline Weston Thomas at

The Queen's Wedding Dress Designer - Norman Hartnell

In a sense, the Queen has been married twice. The first time she became wedded to Prince Philip; the second time at her coronation, she became wedded to the people. Each occasion demanded a dress of majestic beauty and on each occasion she chose dress designer, Norman Hartnell.

With his theatrical training, Hartnell was the ideal person to make spectacular dresses which would hold a stage of another kind.